Costa Rica was different than I thought
My itinerary discovering nature, wildlife and beaches in Costa Rica. What impressed me (and what I didn't expect)
Remote beaches, lush green forests and colorful birds: These were the images coming to my mind when I was dreaming about Costa Rica.
And then the hanging bridges, the hidden waterfalls, the jungle lodges….Costa Rica just seemed the perfect adventure.
But I was wondering: Is Costa Rica really the Paradise I had in mind? I was curious to find out. So I booked my tickets and started planning an itinerary to explore jungle, beach and sea.
Here’s what I found out.
Jump to…
My impressions about Costa Rica
Wildlife & Nature are amazing
Costa Rica is home to nearly 5% of the species estimated worldwide, making it one of the countries with the highest biodiversity in the world.
In fact, the nature in Costa Rica is incredible: In two weeks I saw toucans and scarlet macaws, sloths, dolphins, sea turtles as well as exotic plants I didn’t even know existed!
While in National Parks there’s a higher chance to spot wildlife, it’s common to see monkeys, birds and other animals by the beach and anywhere else. Sometimes at night I could even hear howler monkeys around our hotel. (Tip: Take earplugs with you-many accommodations have thin walls and windows, if at all).
Costa Rica Beaches & Snorkeling: Mixed impressions
The beaches on the Pacific and Caribbean side of Costa Rica are beautiful, clean and wild, mostly with black or gold sand beaches and often extending for kilometers.
With so much space, you’ll often have the entire beach for yourself!
Can you snorkel in Costa Rica? Some beaches are good for swimming, while in others the rip currents are too strong (there are warning signs most of the times).
Conditions for snorkeling weren't ideal when I visited because of limited visibility - except for Caño Island, where I spotted beautiful tropical fish and sea turtles.
Costa Rican food is delicious and…is everywhere
One thing is for sure -you won’t starve in Costa Rica! In fact, restaurants and sodas are literally everywhere.
Some popular dishes you’ll find in Costa Rica:
Gallo Pinto (rice with beans)
Arroz con pollo (rice with chicken)
Patacones (snacks made of mashed fried plantains)
Platanos Maduros (sweet fried ripe plantains)
Ceviche (raw fish marinated in lemon)
In most sodas you can order a Casado (combo plate with everything you like) for 3,500-4,500 colones (7-9 USD).
Along the Caribbean coast you’ll find dishes cooked in Caribbean sauce. Yum!
Accessibility is great
Costa Rica is accessible: In fact, the main roads connecting tourist areas are in great conditions, and towns like La Fortuna have good infrastructure and often a (small) airport.
Do you need a 4x4 in Costa Rica? Not if you are drive between the more touristy areas. I drove from San José to La Fortuna and then all the way down to Manuel Antonio and Puerto Jimenez and never needed a 4x4.
On secondary roads (like Puerto Jimenez - Drake Bay) or if you want to explore areas off the main roads, you’ll need a 4x4 especially during rainy season.
Costa Rica isn’t cheap
Is a holiday in Costa Rica expensive? Well, chances are that Costa Rica is more expensive than you think. This is how much I spent on average in a day:
Meals: 10-20 USD per meal per person (Most restaurants add +10% / +23% service fees and VAT on top of menu prices)
Coffee: 2-3 USD
Park entry fees: 10/15 USD per person + 5/10 USD for parking + 20 USD for tour guides (optional)
Day excursions: 80-90 USD per person (for ex. boat tours)
USD are accepted almost everywhere, but locals will give you change in Colones (the local currency). Plan your finances carefully: Some ATMs have daily withdrawal limits, most of them apply withdrawal fees (only BCR didn’t) and in some towns like Drake Bay there might be no ATMs at all.
My 18-Days Costa Rica itinerary highlights
In 18 days we managed to see some of the main destinations in Costa Rica as well as off-the-beaten-path places, travelling by car, plane and shared transfers.
Read the highlights below (you can view my full itinerary on Google Maps).
The area between San José and la Fortuna
One of the roads from San José to la Fortuna is surrounded by beautiful landscapes between countryside and cloud forests.
There are also many waterfalls along the way, especially around Bajos del Toro -but mind the opening times: Some of them are closed on Sundays and possibly during public holidays.
We visited Waterfall Tesoro Escondido (entry fee around 15 USD), which is a nice hike through a gorge with several waterfalls and blue lakes (you can swim, but the water is cold) and one big, spectacular waterfall at the end.
Totally recommended!
La Fortuna and Arenal Volcano
We didn’t spend much time in the town of La Fortuna, as it’s a very popular place for tourists visiting the Arenal Volcano.
Instead, we stayed at Guapote Lodge, which offers cabins and glamping tents surrounded by the nature, just 30 minutes away from the hustle and bustle of La Fortuna, yet close enough to the main attractions.
Ideas for things to do around La Fortuna, Costa Rica:
See the Arenal Volcano (from far away) - You can't hike on the volcano itself, but there are a few national parks with nice viewpoints to choose from. We visited Arenal National Park (18 USD entry fee), which can be done in half a day.
Visit a Chocolate or Coffee farm - There are plenty of options to choose from, we did the Don Olivo chocolate tour (25 USD) and enjoyed the overall experience.
Try ziplines, rafting or other activities - While we didn’t do any of these, there are plenty (really, a lot!) of options for this type of activities around the area.
Manuel Antonio
The area around Manuel Antonio is possibly one of the most visited in Costa Rica, thanks to its vibes and the famous National Park. Due to the good accessibility by car and by plane from San José, there are many hotels and resorts around here.
We had booked an accommodation in Quepos as it’s more affordable (and less touristy) than the town of Manuel Antonio, yet close to the national park entrance and beaches.
Ideas for things to do in Quepos and Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica
Explore Manuel Antonio National Park - We accessed the park at 7.00 AM and managed to explore it avoiding the crowds. Tour guides are optional and costs 20 USD at the entrance (around 70 USD online).
Having the entire Manuel Antonio Beach for ourselves was an amazing experience! Visit the beaches - Playa Biesanz is a little paradise. The road is difficult to access (take some shoes with you) and parking costs 5 USD for the day. Playa Manuel Antonio is another spectacular beach located right before the park entrance.
Enjoy local vibes
There are many bars and restaurants in this area. We stopped at De La Finca to try their signature tuna fish burger -delicious!
If you are driving from the north like we did, a quick stop on the Crocodile bridge on is a must!
The Pacific Coast
If you are travelling by car the road from Manuel Antonio to Puerto Jimenez is a pleasant drive with stunning views on the Pacific and through green forests.
You can do it in 3-4 hours without any stop, but my recommendation is to take it easy and stop along the way to truly enjoy the Pacific vibes.
Things to do between Manuel Antonio and Puerto Jimenez, Costa Rica:
Get off the main road to explore beaches - For example Playa Linda
Chill in Playa Dominical - A nice beach town with relaxed vibes, bars, restaurants and a street market
Eat Ceviche - There are a few sodas and restaurants serving Ceviche. We stopped at La Parcela, slightly upscale with beautiful views on the sea.
The Osa Peninsula
If you are looking for a truly remote experience in Costa Rica, head to Osa Peninsula in the south-western part of the country.
The town of Puerto Jimenez is the “gateway” to Osa Peninsula: Here you'll find some small restaurants, bars, guest houses (we enjoyed our stay at Corcovado Beach Lodge) and a laid back atmosphere.
Puerto Jimenez can be reached by car or by plane from San José.
Things to do around Puerto Jimenez and Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica:
Embark on a Jungle trek: The Corcovado National Park is one of the most biodiverse areas on earth. There are several one-day and multi-day hikes departing from Puerto Jimenez.
We did a 2-day jungle trek with overnight stay at La Sirena Ranger Station and it was a once in a lifetime experience. You can read all about it here:Disconnect in Drake Bay: This area is located on the west of Osa Peninsula and possibly one of the most remote places I’ve visited in Costa Rica. To get here you'll need a 4x4, book a car transfer, take a public bus from Puerto Jimenez or ask to be transferred by boat at the end of the jungle hike (like we did).
There are a few hotels, guesthouses and restaurants in Drake Bay, but no ATMs (you’ll need cash for most excursions).Snorkel around Caño Island: Isla del Caño is a small island and biological reserve, one hour boat from Drake Bay. We did a half-day boat excursions and even if the sea conditions were not ideal, we spotted some beautiful tropical fish and sea turtles, stopping at two beaches.
Due to the price, (95 USD per person, lunch included), I would recommend doing it only with good weather.
Puerto Viejo and the Caribbean coast
The beach town of Puerto Viejo is possibly the main entry point to the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica and is full with restaurants, bars, cafés and a has a vibrant atmosphere.
We arrived in Pierto Viejo from San José with a shared minivan by Caribe Shuttle, a quite comfortable 6-hours drive (57USD + taxes). Another way to get to Puerto Viejo is by plane from San José to Limón, but you'll have to add the transfer costs to your hotel, which can be expensive.
There are plenty of hotels, hostels and lodges in and around Puerto Viejo. If you are looking for more privacy and a quieter environment, look for options towards Punta Uva or even Manzanillo. Getting to Puerto Viejo by taxi or tuk-tuk costs between 5-15 USD depending on the distance.
Here are some things to do around Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica:
Rent a bike for some beach-hopping
Relax on the beaches, like Playa de Punta Uva or Playa Chiquita
Grab a drink by the beach between Punta Cocles and Puerto Viejo
Cross the border to Panamà and visit Bocas del Toro - it takes just 4 hours and totally worth it if you have at least 2-3 days.
If you are not subscribed yet, you can do so to read my experience in Bocas del Toro once I’ll publish it:
SAVING TIP: To get from your accommodation around Puerto Viejo to Limon airport you can either book a private/shared transfer, or take the public bus and save 100 USD for a slightly longer, yet comfortable trip. Don’t forget to tell the bus driver to stop at the airport!
My trip to Costa Rica: Final thoughts
So, did Costa Rica meet my expectations? Largely, yes. The nature and wildlife are just spectacular, the food is delicious, people are friendly and the vibes are great.
But as I came back from my holiday, I had mixed feelings whether I had experienced the real Costa Rica: Maybe the crowds in high season or the (sometimes excessively) high prices had spoiled my expectations just a bit?
Don’t get me wrong: Accessibility is a great thing as it makes it easier for everyone to experience the world. But based on what I had seen on social media (which some research suggests isn’t always accurate) I had expected a more off-the-beaten-track experience.
Would I recommend visiting Costa Rica?
Definitely YES! In fact, this country seems to offer the perfect balance between the thrill of an adventure holiday, and the safety of an organized trip.
My tips to enjoy a holiday in Costa Rica
Are you planning a trip to Costa Rica? Here are some tips:
Explore Costa Rica by car, if you can. Most roads are in good conditions, but with a 4x4 you’ll have more freedom to go off the beaten track. Many towns have a car rental center, therefore consider renting the car in San José, dropping it somewhere else, and continuing by bus, minivan, plane….you name it!
If you visit during peak season, enter National Parks very early in the morning, possibly between 7-8 AM. And don’t feel the pressure of visiting the “must sees” at any cost.
Some excursions depart from one place and (upon request) drop you somewhere else. Use this to your advantage to get from A to B
If you need internet, an eSIM might be a cheaper solution. There are several eSIM providers, I used Airalo and it worked well (here’s my experience using it).
Plan your finances carefully, considering ATM and credit card fees.
Pura Vida Costa Rica!
About me:
As a passionate traveler and industry expert I've been lucky to experience the world of travel from behind the scenes: From crossing borders in South America to wild taxi rides in Asia; From sipping champagne at 30,000 ft to camping in the Savannah.
In my blog Beating Jetlag I share my most epic travel experiences, insider tips and behind-the-scenes content for smart adventurers, as well as travel marketing advice for Creators. Read more about me here.
Love Costa Rica, you've captured it well! I will say the cost is something that really surprised me as well. It's significantly more expensive than Europe! But absolutely think it's a country that needs to be visited at least once.
Costa Rica has been high on my list for a while – thanks for the tips and insight into the prices and crowds!