Authentic Sicily on a road trip
My smart itinerary and tips to experience the best of Sicily off the beaten path.
Of sixteen Italian regions I’ve visited, Sicily remains one of my favorites.
This island has so much to offer -history, nature, food and traditions and even a 3,300 mt high volcano - making it a great destination to discover all year round.
I designed this itinerary helped by people very familiar with this area. It covers some of the must see in Sicily and hidden gems between Catania, Syracuse and the Val di Noto.
I recommend doing this road trip during low season: You’ll enjoy less crowds and a more authentic side of Sicily.
Sounds exciting? Let’s go!
Our 12-days itinerary and things to do in Sicily, Italy
DAY 1: Arrival
We land in the late afternoon at Catania Airport and pick up the car at the car rental. We’ve got an hour drive direction south along the eastern coast of Sicily before reaching our first accommodation near Avola.
DAY 2: Good morning Sicily!
We are staying at an Agriturismo inside a fully renovated Baglio (fortified farmhouses from the 16th-18th century typical in this area of Sicily), surrounded by lemon groves extending for miles in all directions -couldn’t get more authentic than that!
From this place it takes just 30 minutes by car to get to the Island of Ortigia, the historic city center of Syracuse, a must see in Sicily and a real gem due to its rich history and architecture.
My suggestions to experience Ortigia, Syracuse, Italy:
Get lost in the maze of alleyways and small squares in the historic city centre, best done with a guided tour;
Walk all around the ramparts by the sea;
Stop for a cappuccino (before noon, please!) at one of the bars on the ramparts, for example Caffé Calarossa;
Enjoy an aperitivo watching the sunset by Lungomare Alfeo
DAY 3: Marzamemi
The road trip continues to our next destination, Marzamemi, a small village by the sea famous for tuna fishery since 1600. In fact, a few tonnare (typical warehouses where tuna fish was stocked and prepared after being fished) still dominate the main square.
In Marzamemi you’ll find plenty of fish restaurants (from traditional Trattorie up to high end restaurants), small boutiques and cafés. There’s a chilled atmosphere and not all restaurants are open over lunchtime in low season, and that’s what makes it beautiful if you’re looking for some tranquility.
A few places worth checking out in Marzamemi:
Taverna la Cialoma, a picturesque restaurant on the main square serving seafood and other specialties (we didn’t eat here, but the location is beautiful);
Adelfio Conserve, a fish shop specialized in products from local fishermen, especially tuna and swordfish.
If you’re looking for more action, head to Marzamemi in the late afternoon during the weekends.
The next stop of the itinerary is Modica in the Val di Noto, where we’ll spend the next few days.
Day 4-7: Discovering the Val di Noto
The Val di Noto is an area in Sicily encompassing eight towns with richly decorated churches and palazzi in Sicilian baroque style from the 17th century. The Val di Noto is a must see in Sicily and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We picked the town of Modica as our base for a few days to explore the Val di Noto. Our apartment in the heart of the old town (yet accessible by car) was a perfect place to live and breathe the local life!
My suggestions to experience Modica, Italy:
Get a beautiful view of the city from the top of S.Giorgio Cathedral’s bell tower
Enjoy a Cappuccino or Aperitivo at Bar del Duomo
Try the Cannoli at Casa Don Puglisi
Taste the traditional Modica chocolate at one of the manufacturers in town
Discover the alleyways on the western side of the old town, until you reach Belvedere San Benedetto
These are the towns in the Val di Noto that we visited around Modica:
Noto
The town of Noto, giving its name to the entire area, is famous for its majestic Cathedral from the 18th century in Sicilian baroque style, a landmark that you’ll see on many pictures and postcards of Sicily.
There are many more churches and palazzi that we discovered just by randomly walking around the city and that are worth seeing if you have some time.
We stopped for a coffee and traditional sweets at Caffé Sicilia and for dinner at Naché, a restaurant with cozy atmosphere and great food.
Ragusa Ibla
If I had to recommend one town besides Modica to visit in the Val di Noto, it would be Ragusa Ibla. In fact, its charming location on a cliff, the rich architecture and dramatic views make it a perfect destination for a half- or full day trip.
You can park your car here and check with the nearby local tourist office for an itinerary. In any case don’t miss this viewpoint and the small Church of S.ta Maria delle Scale, the oldest in the city.
Scicli
What makes the town of Scicli unique is its location in a gorge, surrounded by ancient settlements excavated in rocks. Scicli is relatively small and can be explored in half a day -yet boasts a high density of baroque churches and richly decorated palazzi.
We walked up until the Church of S. Matteo to enjoy a beautiful view of the city from above.
Day 8: Caltagirone
We leave Modica for our next stop, the town of Caltagirone. This town is famous for its colorful ceramics that range from small tiles to richly decorated teste di moro, sold in small boutiques and shops anywhere in town.
We spent the whole day exploring this city, which feels bigger -and unfortunately, also less well maintained- than other towns in the Val di Noto. That’s a pity, because Caltagirone hides a huge number of beautiful palazzi with charming courtyards and baroque churches.
The main landmark of Caltagirone is the stunning staircase of Santa Maria del Monte, built in 1606 to connect the ancient part of Caltagirone to the newly built city in the upper part:
Tip: Many businesses in Caltagirone (even the tourist office!) were closed between 1PM - 4PM, sometimes even longer. Keep that in mind when planning your visits in low season.
Day 9: The mosaics in Villa Romana del Casale
After a rich breakfast, we get into the car and start driving to the next stop: Villa Romana del Casale, the remains of a large Roman villa from the 4th century BC now designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The mosaics are stunning and far beyond our expectations! According to experts, Villa Romana del Casale has the largest and most varied collection of mosaics that remains in the world.
It’s quite a drive to reach this place, located almost in the heart of Sicily, but if you love history and arts, you really shouldn’t miss it.
The ticket price was 12€ per person when we visited, and it’s totally worth it.
If you are travelling on a budget, check on the website the dates when entrance is free.
After our visit we drive back towards Syracuse, stopping in a few villages before reaching our next accommodation.
Day 10-12: Farm life
For our last days we had booked a farm stay in the countryside around Syracuse. Azienda Agricola Santa Catrini is a charming, renovated Masseria.
The owner is very passionate and tells me more about its story:
“I grew up in this place which belongs to my family since five generations. This Masseria (farmhouse from the 16th-18th century typical in this area of Sicily) hosted an oil mill, rooms for farmers and stables until 1950. I’ve started the renovations in 2016, staying true as much as possible to the original techniques and materials.”
It’s a perfect place to unwind after the long journey, enjoying the views of the Etna volcano and cooking some of the products we’ve bought on our way.
Day 13: Back to Catania & Departure
It’s time to leave - We drive back to Catania airport, where we’ll drop our car before boarding our flight (Tip: Try to get a window seat to enjoy a view of the Etna Volcano during takeoff!)
Ciao Sicilia, we’ll be back!
What to eat during this trip
As someone who’s visited most Italian regions, I can confidently say that the cuisine of Sicily is one of the most diverse and richest in Italy, as it’s been influenced by dozens of different cultures.
Here are a few local ingredients and 100% traditional specialties that I recommend trying before leaving Sicily:
Local ingredients: Pachino cherry tomatoes; Pistachios from Bronte; Primosale cheese
For a quick snack or lunch: Arancini al ragù; Scaccia Modicana
To drink: Nero d’Avola red wine
At the restaurant: Pasta con le sarde e pan grattato; Grilled seafood with Gambero rosso di Mazara
For breakfast: Granita alle mandorle con brioche (available only when the temperature gets warmer); Cannolo & caffé (Important: the ricotta needs to be fresh and added right in front of you, just before serving!)
When is the best time to travel to Sicily?
If you want to experience a more authentic side of Sicily as well as enjoying arts, landscapes and food, March-April is the right time (but avoid the Easter holidays when most people travel).
We visited mid-March and temperatures were mild (15-25 °C), but hotel pools were still closed. Some restaurants in less touristy areas were closed too.
It’s always good to check with your hotel if there are any notable events in the area (“sagre” e “feste di paese”) once there. These events are a great opportunity to discover the traditions and taste seasonal specialties.
On the other hand, if you are looking to enjoy beach vibes and more crowds, late September / mid October are better options. Temperatures will be warmer, yet places will be less crowded than in summer.
Is it safe to travel to Sicily?
People ask me from time to time whether moving around in Sicily is safe.
As someone who has visited 45+ countries in the world, I can confidently say that Sicily is safe for tourists. If you follow the basic common sense of travelling abroad, you will be perfectly fine!
Full Sicily Itinerary + Highlights on Google Maps
This is the Google Maps version of my full itinerary + favorite places in Sicily, Italy.
Click here to see the full itinerary on Google Maps.
About me:
As a passionate traveler and airline & hospitality expert I've been lucky to experience travel from behind the scenes -From crossing the Andes by bus, to flying Business class to the Maldives and everything in between.
Some fun facts about my trips:
I’ve visited 5 of the 7 New World Wonders
Lowest point I’ve reached: Death Valley, California at -86 mt (-282 ft) altitude
Highest point I’ve reached: The Andes, 5,050 mt (16,568 ft) altitude
I've stayed at 100+ accommodations, from a tent in the Savannah to a houseboat on a French river
I’ve travelled 350,000+ km across 45+ countries and 5 continents by bus, car, boat, bike, hiking and so much more…
In my blog Beating Jetlag I share my travel experiences, insider tips and behind-the-scenes content for smart adventurers, as well as travel marketing recommendations for Creators. You can read more about me here.
Have spent a fair amount of time in Sicily and love this collection of recommendations. I too adore Scicli and love the culinary roundup you included. I dream of almond granita until I return in May— also beyond Nero d’Avola I really enjoy a crisp glass of Catarratto.👌🏻
I've gotta go there! Thanks for the read.
Cheers